Sixteen hikers were willing to take the three
hour drive that will take us deep into a remote
canyon of the Coast Range where three
spectacular waterfalls tumble through the jungly
rainforest. Even though it's long, the drive is
beautiful as we follow first the Umpqua River
along highway 138 & 38 and then along the Smith
River just north of Reedsport. Since we have
enough drivers, all of the cars will go to the
upper trailhead and will then be shuttled back
to the lower trailhead by those who are hiking
in and out.
It's
already 11:00 when we get to the trailhead and
everyone is anxious to don their packs and hit
the trail. The faster hikers that are planning
to do the 8.7 mile through hike are soon out of
sight. The first part of the trail winds gently
downward through a forest lush with ferns and
woodland flowers...
trilliums, bleeding heart, yellow violets and
oxalis along with currents and salmonberry were
all in bloom. Calling
this a rainforest was appropriate as we had
drizzle with an attitude off and on most of the
day. Occasional shafts of sunlight highlighted
moss shrouded branches with a beautiful glow.
After 1/2 mile the trail skirts a rocky cliff
and we have our first views of beautiful 100
foot Upper Kentucky Falls. Then it's
switchbacking down the canyon for 3/10 of a mile
to the base of Upper Kentucky Falls. Since the
leaves are just starting to come out on the
trees and bushes, we have wonderful glimpses of
babbling brooks rushing along beside us as we
continue the 1.4 miles where the trail ends at
an observation deck in a misty grotto by Lower
Kentucky Falls.
Lower Kentucky Falls (on Kentucky Creek)
plunges off a cliff side by side with North Fork
Falls (on the North Fork Smith River) about 50
yards apart. Both falls are about 80' high. There
was so much water coming over the falls that the
viewing platform was shrouded in mist. When we
got there, the faster hikers were already
leaving, but a few were still huddled in the
mist finishing their lunch. In past years we've
eaten our lunch sitting by the creek with a
wonderful view of the falls. This year there is
so much water that the creek is actually running
down the short trail that continues to another
viewpoint of North Fork Falls.
After enjoying lunch and the falls, we backtrack
to the North Fork Trail and follow the river on
a muddy track for another 8/10 mile to a
beautiful pool with a small (10 ft.)
waterfall... the turnaround point for those
doing the 6 mile hike. This part of the trail
isn't used as much and had several areas where
we had to push our way through the overhanging
VERY wet bushes.
After the pool, the through hikers continue as
the trail made a long and steep traverse up and
around several side canyons while the North Fork
splashed unseen somewhere down in the canyon. A
look at the map showed the reason for the
detour... the trail has to skirt around private
riverside property. It was a lot of uphill for
a trail that basically heads downhill. This
middle third of the trail apparently does not
see a lot of foot traffic as it was badly
overgrown and the trail tread was faint. As we
tromped through the brush, the water on the
vegetation was transferred to hikers so we got
wet even though the drizzle had let up some.
Six miles into the hike, we crossed the North
Fork on a magnificently constructed bridge,
contrasting dramatically with a number of lesser
bridges we crossed. Some of those bridges were
pretty slick with all the moisture and a wade
across the river would almost be preferable to
risking life and limb fighting for traction on
the slimy planks